Edelweiss Chalk Bag. Edelweiss Vertige Helmet. Wild Country Rock Set For those climbers who have already gained a solid foundation of strength through bouldering, the next obvious step if you're keen to crank your power training up another gear is to experiment with Campus boarding. Developed by the late legendary German climber, Wolfgang Gullich, the Campus board is an overhanging wooden board which starts at head height and is climbed footless using wooden rungs of varying thickness but consistent space intervals.
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By Neil Gresham November 7th, The crossover is a variation to the standard ladder method of campus-boarding. Photo: Liam Lonsdale. In order to minimize susceptibility to injury and increase the productivity of your training, employ the following:. Bouldering and hangboarding are otherwise more effective training methods. Juniors under 17 years of age should not do foot-off campusing.
Foot-on training is fine with supervision. Emphasize quality, rest between sets 2. First-time campus boarders should go once a week, then build up to twice a week.
No need for elites to campus more than three times per week. Figure :. Regular half-crimp. Figure C: Open hand, aka drag grip. Photos: Liam Lonsdale. This is a variant on the regular half-crimp figure B , where the index finger bends at 90 degrees.
Both grips are considered safe and effective for campusing, although most climbers find it harder to use a regular half-crimp. However, if you wish to work your arms more, use whichever grip you find easiest.
Another workable grip is the open-hand, aka drag grip figure C , in which you hook your first finger joint over the rung and straighten the fingers. This grip develops strength for pockets or climbing openhanded on edges, but go carefully, as the injury risk may be slightly higher than with the half-crimp or chisel. When structuring your training, a good ratio is to do two or three sets of half-crimp to one set of open-hanging, unless you have a major weakness in hanging or are training for a project or crag that features pockets.
The most common climbingspecific campus exercise is to climb the board, footless, without matching on the rungs. Hold the bottom rung with both hands, then pull up fast and slap up with one hand to catch a high rung. Pull through on this, and catch a higher rung with the lower arm. Match on this to finish or go to the top if you are advanced. Rest, then repeat, leading with the other arm. For strength training, increase the rung spacings or use smaller rungs. A worthwhile variation on laddering is to cross over to an adjacent ladder track, and then pull through to match a high rung on that track.
Hold the bottom rung with both hands, then pull up and, with one hand, touch or hold a high rung. Drop back down to catch yourself on the rung you started on, and repeat the process, leading with alternate hands each time. Continue until you fail to touch the high rung.
For development of power, try spending the minimum possible amount of time on the bottom rung. Hold the bottom rung with both hands, pull up and, with one hand, catch the next rung up. Then bump again to the next rung, and so on until you fail to catch a rung. Rest and repeat, leading with the other arm. As the name suggests! Hold the bottom rung with both hands, then pull up and dyno simultaneously with both hands to catch a high rung. Let go with both hands and drop back down, to catch yourself on the rung you started on.
Repeat the process to failure. A crazy variation on standard doubles, which tests coordination to the limit.
Start with both hands on rung two or three, then simultaneously snatch up to a higher rung with one arm while snatching to a lower rung with the other arm. Repeat to failure. Campus boards can be great for endurance training. Stronger climbers can go footless and train top-end strength endurance aka: short resistance or anaerobic power , whereas climbers at a more intermediate level upward can train with feet on, and work both strength endurance and long endurance.
For strength endurance you need to be capable of performing between approximately 12 and 40 repetitions, whereas for long resistance it will be between 50 and reps. The training variables will be rung size and spacing and whether or not you go footless. The advantages of using a campus board for endurance is that the training is formulaic and easy to measure, and you can switch your brain off and go for the burn.
The main exercise is basic laddering, but you can spice things up with variations such as up and downs, where you go up one rung, return to the start ,and then go up one rung higher each time until you top out. Neil Gresham digs into simulation training—replicating specific moves and segments of routes and problems so you can be as prepared as possible for your project.
Want to climb better instantly? Then learn how to warm up for climbing properly with these tips from Neil Gresham. Our editorial and design team—and all of our contributors—are climbers just like you who love the sport and want to share all the great things it has to offer.
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Rock + Run
The long, hot days of Summer are coming to an end. Luckily, in most areas of the country Fall is prime sending season——the temperature drops, cool winds blow in, and the stone gets sticky. Time to focus in and get some work done! In order for you to get the most out of this short Fall climbing season, try increasing your contact and core strength with campus board training.
Training for Climbing With Eric Horst: The Campus Board
By Neil Gresham November 7th, The crossover is a variation to the standard ladder method of campus-boarding. Photo: Liam Lonsdale. In order to minimize susceptibility to injury and increase the productivity of your training, employ the following:.